You can find some ticket machines on this site, available free of charge along with station floor tiling and walls as well.
Adding a backscene to your garage model will improve the appearance tremendously. A selection of these are freely downloadable from the main Kingsway Models website.
Print the scene out - you may have to join the larger ones together. Glue to a back board of card or hardboard and add behind the model. These views show the difference that this simple addition can make.
Many built up Kingsway Models will require large areas of tarmac or concrete. I have sometimes used grey car aerosol for this; although for the lock up garages seen above, I used a sheet of grey mounting card. Either way, a little time can be spent to make things look more realistic.
I scored some light 'joins' into the card, and then ran a soft pencil along to darken them. Using 'Bostick' All Purpose adhesive, I stretched a 'string' of glue along the lines, and then sprinkled green 'flock powder' (available from model shops) to represent grass / weeds growing up through the crack. I also did this along the footings of the walls, also adding some brown flock powder.Dyed lichen or rubberised material can also be bought cheaply to use as foliage; as I have done for the bush and weed growth.
The drain inspection cover is simply a piece of mount board cut to size. I pushed the end of a pencil in to make two impressions and added some simple detail with pencil. You can sometimes find brass etches of scale drain covers in model shops.
The scrawled 'No Parking' sign was simply added to the garage door with a pen, and the oil stain behind the Rover is the result of a finger smeared with cooking oil! For roadways, I have used a very light marking with charcoal, smeared with a finger tip to represent the darkened area left by the passage of tyres.
Almost any model will benefit from being placed in front of a photographic back scene.It is easy to find suitable images on the web that can be printed out. You can often even find the actual place the building is situated! This can be pasted to a vertical piece of hardboard, or card and fixed to the rear of the baseboard.
For the motorway I simply used a grey car pimer aerosol on the MDF baseboard. Once dry I very lightly marked the lane boundaries in pencil (representing joins in the surface). Strips of adhesive white labels were then applied to represent the lane and hard shoulder lines.
A stick of charcoal was lightly scribbled over the first lane - where the surface is usually discoloured due to HGVs. This was then smudged with a paper tissue. The second lane was more lightly treated and the third hardly at all.
More pictures of the motorway on this page.
The road surface on the Swanley bus garage diorama has been made in the same way. However I have first sprayed the yard and garage area with black paint before over-spraying with grey. This makes the road grey but the yard and garage a darker colour. Then the charcoal is added,and paper towel is used to rub the charcoal in the same way that the bus tyres would when turning in from the road. Some grass mat and lichen bushes from the model shop have been added and scraps of card used to make pavements and kerbs. The black kerb markings were added with felt tip pen.
Remember I can build a diorama for you - click HERE for details.
Use an offcut of net curtain material - if you can't nick a piece from the window, it is very cheap to buy! Ideally spray with car aerosol paint - I used an oxide red undercoat to give a rusty colour, but silver could be used for a new fence, or green for the plastic covered variety.
Posts can be from matchsticks, or plasticard. I actually used two layers of mounting card. End posts often had an angled support piece (seen behind the lamp post). The posts were glued into cut outs in the edge of the paving (use the Kingsway Models PAV kit for this) , and when set, the netting was glued to the posts.
A very easy way to make model lamp posts. Use 'twin & earth' electrical cable (not flex which is too bendy).
I use a length of about six inches of the live or neutral insulated wire. Cut off most of the insulation leaving about an inch or so. Roll the wire with a ruler on a board to get it perfectly straight.
Bend the top to shape - just pointing gently upwards. Cut a small piece of perspex or thick card (from Kingsway kit). Paint the post and top of the lamp grey. Paint the underside of the lamp silver or orange for a neon lamp. Paint the timing apparatus cabinet (the insulation) green.
Drill a hole in the base board (use Kingsway PAV paving) and insert the post in the hole.
Easy Lamp post!
The remaining wire - including the bare earth can be useful for all sorts of modelling uses.